Burda shirt #114 – Burda Magazine 06/2020
Today I’ll show you how I sewed my latest Burda shirt #114 from the June BurdaStyle Magazine edition 2020. I wanted a clean finish on this one because the crepe fabric I chose frays a lot. I used bias binding on the seams. With the flutter sleeves the bound seams gives it a really nice flair and since they flutter when you move your arms, you can actually see the bound seams.
The shirt is a quick sewing project. It’ll come together in an afternoon. The pattern has 4 pieces: a front and back (both cut on the fold) and a front and back facing. I quite love Burda patterns for their clever constructions (even though the instructions can be though to get through sometimes).
I’ve decided to make the shirt in a colorful crepe fabric. The shirt will be wearable to the office (combined with a somber cardigan or jacket) or to the lake side. I do think, however, that the flutter sleeves would look even better with a less colorful fabric.
The shirt has a loose fit, so I decided against an FBA (full bust adjustment) or any of my other Burda adjustments (reducing width at the waist, changing shoulders etc.). Let me show you how I sewed it:
I like to transfer my patterns to sheer paper and make sure to label all pieces carefully (with their name, size, how to cut it etc). I don’t add seam allowances to the paper pieces, but rather add them while cutting. That way I can adjust the seam allowance, depending on whether I’ll sew the project on my overlock or with the regular machine (or add French seams, or bind my edges = all these things demand different seam allowance).
I’ve added 1cm (.4in) for the seam allowances at the side seams, shoulders and neckline. For the hem I’ve added 3cm (1.2”).
2. Transferring markings
Burda has a really lovely tradition of adding sewing markings all over their pieces. This pattern is no exception: There are two important markings. 1 for the width of the shoulder seam (which means you can freely adjust it!) and one for marking the side seams. Since the fabric is so colorful, I transferred the markings using thread instead of chalk.
3. Gather shoulder seams on the front pattern piece
The shoulder seams are slightly gathered on the front pattern piece. You’ll have to gather them to the length of the shoulder seam of the back piece. I always do this with the sewing machine: sew 2 parallel lines with the longest stitch length all the way across the shoulder. Hold the top threads on both sides and pull on 1 side to gather the fabric. I always tie off the ends to make sure the gather does not loosen again.
4. Bias bind shoulder and side seams
Instead of finishing the raw seams with a zigzag stitch or the overlock, I decided to bind the raw edges with bias tape. It’s called a “hong kong finish” and is often used for coats, jackets or dresses without linings.If you don’t want the seams to get too thick you can leave the back of the hong kong seam unfinished. I’ve decided to go for the fully bound version.
I’ve placed the bias tape right on right, sewed it on with a straight stitch, turned it over and sewed it again.
5. Sew shoulder seams
Now it’s time to sew the shoulder seams. Put the front and back pieces on top of each other, right sides facing each other. Sew shoulder seams until you hit the marking on the back pattern piece. Make sure to fix your seam so that the seam does not unravel! This seam end will get pulled on and stretched when you put your shirt on or off – so make sure it’s secure. Stitch 3 back stitches and then 3 forward stitches again to fix the ends.
6. Sew side seams
After the shoulder seam you can sew the side seams. Put the shirt front and back together, right sides facing each other. Then sew the side seams until the marking. Again: make sure to secure the ends.
7. (optional) hide bound seams on the sleeves
At the fluttery sleeves I’ve turned the bound seams to the inside and stepped them on. That way they won’t be visible from the outside. You can skip this step if you like the visible bias tape.
8. Prepare the facing
Next up: the facing. Sew the shoulder seams of the facings. That means you sew the front and back pieces of the facing together.
9. Bind seams of the facing
You can either finish the outer seams fo the facing with a zigzag-stitch or bind them again with bias tape. I chose the bias tape version. Check out how I sewed the corner of the front facing piece below.
10. Sew on the facing
Put the facing on top the shirt, right sides facing each other. The shoulder seams meet the facing seams. Cut the V-shaped neckline to make sure the facing creats a nice corner when you turn it inside out.
11. Under-stitching the facing
Turn the facing to the inside and iron it. to ensure the facing lays flat, you’ll need to under-stitch it. Sew the facing and the seam allowance together, close to the seam. You won’t see this seam from the outside, it’s on the facing only.
12. Elongate the side seams
Now you need to continue sewing the side seam on the right side of the fabric (with wrong sides facing each other). Put the shirt in front of you, right side facing you. Draw a straight line from your side seam up and across the curved sleeves. This will give the sleeves the cute fluttery feeling. Take your time and make sure the shirt does not wrinkle on the back side. Then sew the side seams on the right side of the fabric (white line below in the picture).
13. Hem the shirt
Only the hem ist left: first, neaten the edges (with a zigzag stitch or your overlock), then fold your seam allowance (or hem allowance) left sides together. I usually use some glue interfacing if the fabric is too slippery. Then I sew the hem with a straight stitch (medium length) on the right side of the fabric.
You’ve got a new shirt to add to your wardrobe! Now try it on and start fluttering with your arms (it’ll happen automatically with these sleeves, you just gotta try them out).
Have fun sewing,
PS: Look at those seams, aren’t they beautiful?